Trekking to Khmu villages: how to visit respectfully.

I'm Khmu. I grew up in a village two days' walk north of Luang Prabang. When village tourism started here in the 2000s, it was uneven — some operations brought real income to the village, some treated us like a photo backdrop.

If you want to do a village trek, this is what to look for.

What "community-based" actually means

Ask one question of any operator: how much of the trip price goes to the village, and who in the village receives it? A good answer names a household, a community fund, or a homestay rotation. A bad answer is vague.

What we do and do not eat

You will be offered sticky rice, fresh greens from the garden, and whatever fish or chicken is around. You will probably be offered lao-lao — homemade rice spirit — at the evening meal. It is polite to accept a small cup. Going further is up to you.

What not to do

Don't hand sweets to children. Don't photograph the village shrine. Don't ask the elders to "pose." Don't talk through your guide as a translator if your guide is also from the village — they are not your interpreter, they are your host.

The difference between a good village visit and an extractive one is whether you arrive as a guest or a customer. Arrive as a guest.